Separating the Art from the Artist? Unthinkable, You Say! But do you even know who is behind your favorite perfume bottles? For the second edition of Paris Perfume Week, we have the immense honor of welcoming the renowned perfumers who shape contemporary perfumery. Some need no introduction, but all will share their stories—reflecting on both their journeys and their legendary creations. Among these brilliant names, a particularly special guest: Delphine Jelk.
A house perfumer at Guerlain since 2014, Delphine Jelk was awarded the Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres insignia last December. A perfect occasion for Nez to give her the floor and revisit her career—from the small jar of apricot oil from her Swiss childhood to her vision of perfume as something that “does good”, which continues to inspire and guide her today. Interview.
What is your first olfactory memory?
Most likely the small jar of apricot oil that my mother and grandmother used—it’s still a part of my life today and now of my four children’s lives as well. It’s the miracle remedy for all little scrapes!
You come from the fashion world—what led you to fragrance?
At 18, I had only one thing on my mind: leaving Switzerland! But I needed a good reason. I asked myself, what could I study that wasn’t available in my country? I loved drawing and fashion, which led me to Esmod Paris, where I specialized in men’s ready-to-wear. At the end of my four years of study, I had to design a collection. It was the internet boom era, and I imagined a collection based on cashmere and linen, for a man working from home. What fascinated me most was the multi-sensory aspect of the project: I had the idea of flavoring soy milk and developing two fragrances inspired by the fabrics I used, with the help of a friend who was a fragrance evaluator at Firmenich. This collection won me an award and two job offers: one in Paris at Margiela and another in Geneva in Firmenich’s marketing team, who had been drawn to my approach. And so, I returned to Switzerland!
How did the desire to become a perfumer arise?
At Firmenich, a kind and patient perfumer would regularly introduce me to raw materials. When I discovered Triplal, something awakened in me—I realized the power of olfactory memory. For instance, iris moved me because it reminded me of my grandparents’ attic—warm and dusty. This idea of fragrance as a link to childhood, a comfort for the soul, deeply resonated with me and became the driving force behind my desire to pursue this profession—just as much as the artistic aspect.
How did you make that dream a reality?
I quickly joined the marketing and evaluation teams at Firmenich in Paris, which immersed me in the world of olfaction. I felt the urge to create, but I didn’t feel legitimate as a perfumer—I hadn’t had a formal education like at ISIPCA. So, I decided to enroll in a perfumery school and was accepted at GIP in Grasse. I loved being immersed in the raw materials—visiting the harvest and extraction of mimosa, rose, jasmine, lavender… Learning the Jean Carles method, based on contrasts and memory, and recreating classics—it was pure joy!
When did your path cross with Guerlain?
Just before leaving for New York, I met Sylvaine Delacourte, then Guerlain’s director of fragrance creation. She told me: “Make me a flower!” At the time, Drom (where I worked) wasn’t briefed on Guerlain projects, so I figured fine fragrance wasn’t even an option. Instead, I worked on an orange blossom candle—which she recently launched for her own brand. At that time, I had been thinking that Guerlain needed its own equivalent of Coco Mademoiselle or Miss Dior. Then I saw Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette, eating pastries in Converse sneakers, and I pitched to Sylvaine the idea of a raspberry-cherry macaron and rose accord, with smoky tea and licorice facets to give it a rock edge. We developed this concept for two years, along with marketing director Ann Caroline Prazan, who crafted the wonderful story of La Petite Robe Noire. It was initially released in 2009 as a confidential boutique exclusive, before launching worldwide in 2012.
How do you explain its success?
When people enter Guerlain, they expect to experience Guerlain—to find what defines its signature. My guiding principle has always been to respect its heritage, which is both magical and magnificent, while making it relevant to the times. For some, the idea of a macaron-inspired scent at Guerlain seemed absurd. But Guerlain fragrances have always been gourmand, enveloping, addictive. Shalimar practically invented gourmand fragrances with its overdose of ethylvanillin, even if its sweetness is different from what we know today. The peach note in Mitsouko was also strikingly bold at the time. In La Petite Robe Noire, you can find the Guerlinade—with rose, iris, vanilla, and tonka bean. Women who wore L’Heure Bleue recognize their Guerlain DNA in it.
Photo: Pascal Auguie
- Meet Delphine Jelk on the Smell Talks stage on March 20 at 3:30 PM for an exclusive Masterclass, accessible to Paris Perfume Week ticket holders.
- Our livestream pass also lets you watch it online!
Click here to access the livestream ticketing!
This interview was conducted by Anne-Sophie Hojlo—read the full version in french on the Nez website.
